How to buy a used heavy truck

You need a heavy rigid or a prime mover, but the budget won’t stretch to a brand new vehicle: what are your options?

There are plenty of used vehicles on the market and listed for sale on Trucksales.com.au to choose from, but there are multiple factors to consider before you decide on the right unit for you.

The starting point is understanding the transport task to which you’re committed. If it’s a full-time linehaul contract, you really need a low-mileage truck, or one that’s been ‘remanufactured’ or thoroughly inspected and warranted, such as vehicles sold through various OEM brands’ approved used programs.

Some used trucks still carry some remaining original manufacturer’s warranty, but it may or may not be transferable. Don’t assume it is. Check with the original manufacturer or the company that issued the extended warranty.

Used vehicles with extended warranties carry a relatively high price tag, but should make a much better purchase for long-distance haulage than a six-year-old truck that’s just come off linehaul work and been listed on the used market.

Buying a ‘tired’ high-mileage linehaul truck is asking for trouble, unless you have the mechanical expertise or support to do a rebuild before you hit the road.

However, if your task is short haul, a high-mileage truck mightn’t be such a bad deal.

Older trucks often have fewer electronics and less emissions kit meaning less maintenance and lower cost.

Many post-2000 trucks are good for one million kilometres before needing a major overhaul, so a truck with 600,000km on the clock may still have plenty of life left in it for work that is intermittent or has low annual mileage.

A linehaul truck, for example, can be downgraded to metro work—pulling containers or doing local tipping or construction jobs.

Some prime movers can also be converted into rigid tippers, pulling dog trailers for local tipping work. These trucks can potentially last for many years.

Make sure the used truck will suit your transport task. A linehaul truck that’s been pulling B-Doubles will have the necessary power, strength, and gearing to handle local semi-trailer work. If it has a transmission with crawl ratios, it may even be suitable for conversion to rigid and dog tipper work.

However, it may not be appropriate for low-loader or heavy-haulage tasks.

If you’re shopping in the broader used-truck market, you’ll need all the help you can get.

Ideally, find a truck with some provenance. Knowing the fleet, vehicle, and history helps. Regardless, you must examine the truck’s service history. Carefully inspect the logbook to confirm regular maintenance. Some logbooks are filled out fraudulently, so take your time.

A dyno report on engine output at the rear wheels is an ideal way of assessing powerplant condition.

If possible, take oil samples from the engine, transmission, and rear axles for analysis.

Repossession units can be high-risk as maintenance is often skipped when finances get tight.

If you’re unsure about your mechanical aptitude, take someone with you who knows trucks, ideally a qualified mechanic.

A walk-around inspection gives useful first impressions as long as you’re not distracted by chrome, badging, and fresh paint.

Start by dropping the bullbar, popping the cab or bonnet, and inspecting the engine bay. Be cautious of mechanicals that have been glossed up to look clean as the shine may be hiding perished rubbers, oxidised fittings or filter housings that haven’t been touched in months.

Check for:
- Cracked drive belts
- White stains suggesting coolant leaks
- Greasing on suspension and steering parts
- Even tyre wear without feathering or sidewall damage

Disc brakes are easy to inspect - simply check rotor surfaces. Some disc systems require full hub and rotor replacement when worn.

Tilt the cab or bonnet, start the engine and look for excessive start-up smoke. Turn on lights and emergency indicators.

If smoke is present, check the tailpipe: blue = oil, black = diesel. Also check oil and air pressure readings.

If the engine has been run before your arrival, air pressure issues or cold start problems may be hidden.

Turn the steering wheel side to side. There should be no clunks, and the power steering pump shouldn’t be noisy.

Leave the engine running while you complete your inspection so you can monitor engine and transmission noise throughout.

Check that the air conditioning blows cold during this time.

Look for:
- Loose bolts, rivets, and cracks in the cab or chassis
- Rust inside the chassis rails (the outer rails may have been cleaned)
- Damage to interior trim (glossy silicone can’t hide drilled holes)
- Fully functional windows and controls
- No warning lights on the dash

Remove seat covers to inspect driver’s seat condition. Ensure seat adjustments and suspension mechanisms function properly.

Climb behind the cab to check the gantry, exhaust stack and suzi coils. Look for leaks. A multimeter will confirm trailer connection output.

While behind the truck, check:
- Tyre condition
- Mudguard fit
- Fifth wheel mounting integrity
- Locking jaw operation
- All lights

With the engine off and park brake engaged, slide underneath the truck to inspect the driveline, rear suspension, and fuel system for signs of wear, leaks, or damage.

A test drive is essential. Ensure the seats and mirrors are adjustable to suit you before heading off. Release the park brake, press the brake pedal, and listen for air leaks.

Check the clutch for smooth action and that you can feel clutch brake drag and engagement. A working clutch brake will allow smooth, noise-free gear shifts.

An unladen truck should idle off from rest without driveline shudder. The steering should feel smooth and not ‘catch’ at any point.

Transmission shifts should be smooth and without friction but don’t judge constant-mesh gearboxes if you’re not used to driving one!

Before heading onto public roads, get a feel for the brake pedal. The truck should stop straight and without noise when the brakes are appplied.

Suspension condition is harder to assess without a load but driving a bobtail truck is a good way to detect rattles or worn cab and seat mounts.

After your drive, feel the shock absorbers, they should be warm to the touch. Left-hand shocks usually work harder, so they may be slightly warmer.

Engine and exhaust brake performance is difficult to judge without a load, but apply the brake in stages and listen and feel for the changes.

Your inspection and test drive will likely reveal some issues which can shape your negotiating position. But if you're unsure about the vehicle’s overall condition, walk away.

A used truck can be a valuable asset, but only if you buy the right one.

Good luck!